Project



Name: LagMobile
People: collective
Description: fixing up an old van for mobile lagging

LagMobile

  • Massa rijklaar 2170 kg
  • Massa ledig voertuig 2070 k
  • Technische max. massa voertuig 3200 kg
  • Toegestane max. massa voertuig 3200 kg
  • Voertuigcategorie Bedrijfsauto (N1)
  • Speciale doeleinden: Kampeerwagen (SA) Inrichting kampeerwagen
  • Merk MERCEDES-BENZ
  • Handelsbenaming 307 D
  • Datum eerste toelating 04-10-1978
  • Breedte 198 cm
  • Wielbasis 335 cm
  • Lengte 5.20 meter
  • Nettomaximumvermogen 48 kW

Probably: L serie 3t (602) 307D (53kW)

Mercedes L serie 3t (602) Van 307D (53kW) OM616.937;OM616.939

Mercedes L serie 3t (602) Ch.Cab/Pick-up 307D (48kW) OM616.917

MERCEDES-BENZ T1 Platform/Chassis (602) 307 D 2.4 Submodel:307 D 2.4 Capaciteit:2399 Service:65 HP / 48 kW Cilinder:4 Constructietype:Open laadbak/ Chassis Soort aandrijving:Achterwielaandrijving Motorcode:OM 616.937 Soort motor:Diesel Actieve jaren:1977 - 1983

OM616.916 48 kW (64 hp) << should be that one??? OM616.937 53 kW (71 hp) OM616.936 53 kW (71 hp) OM616.912 63 kW (84 hp)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_TN

apkrules

painting process / layers

  • air compress clean and wipe clean the targeted grinded spot with a cloth and terpetine;
  • apply the first layer of paint (half lead oxide paint, half boiled lin seed oil, mixed by feel at a good consistency (bright orange);
  • after the 1.st layer properly dried, repeat the cleaning and apply the second layer of base paint (white paint);
  • [...]

paints

Synthetic, chlorinated rubber, bituminous, epoxy, polyurethanes and antifouling.

tools to arrange

  • krik (somewehere in ravel???)
  • steunen (no clue where they went)
  • battery charger (+psu) (L)
  • extension cords
  • covers
  • gloves

  • painting supplies (L)

  • lights (L)

  • something to bend thick plate
  • heat gun (L)
  • schuurmachine (L)
  • small tube (L)
  • co2 (L)
  • drukvat (L)
  • paint brushes / rollers (L)

02 sept:

  • sand
  • small and longer brushes
  • ijzermenie https://www.bullstore.nl/tenco-ijzermenie-roodbruin-2-5-liter
  • naaldbikhamer (needle scaler) https://valkenpower.com/naaldbikhamer-12-naalden.html
  • siccatief https://www.goedkoopverf.com/bleko-siccatief-10.html
  • air regulator / vochteruithaler
  • bouwlamp lampjes
  • grondverf
  • lak (kleur?)

tools to build

  • camera that can go into beams (webcam + long cable + led lights)
  • tire replacement tool
  • holle ruimte spuit (vloeistofspuit + extension tube)

materials to arrange

  • plate to fix carroserie stuff
  • plate to fix the chassisbalk
  • paint
  • tectyl
  • zinc spray

build a bridge

  • there is a bunch of stones, which can become a bridge

to fix before apk

  • DONE make a new wheel lock
  • clean underside with pressure washer
  • chassis beams
  • door
  • check lights
  • breaks (l/r the same)
  • make sure exhaust does not fall
  • paint underside??
  • alles smeren
  • water vullen + ontluchten thermostaathuis (met antiroest / vries spul)
  • hole left back top
  • plamuur and paint all holes
  • vet wiellagers
  • test all indicator lights and fix them

welding

  • above front window
  • rigth back up
  • in front of fuel tank
  • DONE right front chassis balk

smeren

  • gasstangen, scharnieren, wielophanging,
  • 2x linksvoor bij het wiel (boven en onder)
  • 2x rechtsvoor bij het wiel (boven en onder)
  • 1x tussenaslager
  • fuseekogels
  • stuurkogels
  • oliepijl stuurhuis (46.8%20stuurhuis%20L1.5Z.pdf)

fix

  • lampje gloeien
  • relay knipperlichten (ergens in lag)
  • new cable backlights
  • check all brake lines (remove rust, coat)

Crane

removable H-beam sticking few meters out of the back door with trolley and hinge

Tent / roof extension

Get (waterproof) canvas or canvas like material to build a tenty thing that will protect from rain and cold and extend the space of the lagmobile.

Layout

  • modular system, with things attached with bolts or clamps, so can be used both for transporting big stuff, and for other things

Electrical system

powerfull electrical system

  • should be able to power: coffee machine (1600 watts) , soundsystem, power tools etc.
  • maybe try to build a li-ion pack
  • put solar panels on the roof
  • if we get 4x 12 volt (48 volt) lead acid battery's, we can use a ups as a invertor, and we can have >10A 240volt
  • there is honda generator clones from kipor

driving electrical system

lots of cables are not so good anymore, either patch them up, or redo the whole system

build a new cable tree

  • schematic: https://cloud.puscii.nl/index.php/s/CwH3Bfe6EwEwHnL

salvage a modern electrical system (switchboxes on a can bus) from some car

SJB = smart junction box

LIN bus ==

SAM module ==

to fix after apk

  • spray all inside of beams with lijnolie
  • koelsysteem ontvetten (5% p3 standard) / ontkalken/roesten (10% citroenzuur)??

Coating / rust / metal protection

Metal protection with phosporic acid

According to https://quicksearch.dla.mil/qsDocDetails.aspx?ident_number=8193

type 1

  • 0.68 g / ml
  • 1.59 / 0.68 = 2.34
  • 118ml 85% fosforzuur + 882 ml water makes 1 liter ready to use
  • for 250 ready to use: 29.5 ml 85% fosforzuur + 220.5 water

type 2

  • 0.2 g / ml
  • 1.59 / 0.2 = 7.95

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphate_conversion_coating

Types of drying oils

  • Linseed STAND OIL; which is oil that has been heated for several hours inside a vacuum vessel designed for this purpose.
  • boiled linseed oil, can mean stand oil, or oil with dryers added
  • raw linseed oil

Paint Additives/pigment

Names Drying Function Price/kg Description
ijzermenie, ijzeroxide, red oxid average metal protection 11,0
loodmenie, loodoxide fast dryer, keeping dry traditionally used as dryer in paints, but its toxic
zinkfosfaat
manganese blue/ violet fast dryer 121,0 used a lot as dryer (alternative to lead)
zirconium fast dryer
cobalt fast dryer creates wrinkling
graphite slow water repellante, lubricant, heat resistant, flexible 20,- was used on steam locomotives
lithium
zinc oxide

manganese and iron catalysts in alkyd paints: https://res.mdpi.com/inorganics/inorganics-04-00011/article_deploy/inorganics-04-00011.pdf?filename=&attachment=1 additives for coatings: http://gen.lib.rus.ec/book/index.php?md5=316E895D03223F090E809791DF632936

http://www.organometal.eu/products/paint-driers/ https://www.artisofficina.org/materials/driers---siccativation-in-oils

Linseed graphite paint

  • gallon boiled linseed oil + pound of graphite
  • 3.8 liter + 450 gram
  • 500ml + 60 gram
  • warm should work better
  • to dry faster can be mixed with "autolakuitharder"
  • some people say that raw linseed oil is better, but it doesn't harden, and cannot be painted over

  • put linseed in holle ruimtes with vloeistofspuit

  • to dry faster: Bleko Chemie Siccatief 10 ( 3 - 5 %) (manganese salts, calcium salts, 2-ethylhexaanzuur,

  • https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent

Removing tectyl

  • don't want to damage the zinc layer
  • dry ice blasting (expensive)
  • put dry ice on it, should get hard (expensive)
  • use air chisel
  • leftovers can be removed with diesel / kerosine or something like that

What kinda works to remove rust under tectyl is a combination of the fein with scraper, pneumatic scaler, and pneumatic needle scaler

nuts and bolts

  • different materials see: https://www.oldtimerrestauratie.com/index.php/materialenkennis/48-de-kwaliteit-van-bouten-en-moeren

  • https://www.techwinkel.nl/bouten/zeskanttapbout-volledig-draad/verzinkt/zeskanttapbout-volledig-draad-verzinkt-8-8.html

  • https://www.indi.nl/nl-nl/p/bevestigingsmateriaal/bouten-moeren-draadeinden-etc-/bouten/bouten-metrisch/din-933-zeskanttapbouten/Zeskanttapbout-M8x25-8.8-verzinkt-DIN933-119850?PageNumber=1&VariationTable=true

Needed:

m10 / d17 / 8.8 (din933) voorframebalk 25mm x 12pcs trekhaak m8 any quality, verzinkt dakdragerbevestigingspunten 30mm 24 pcs

plastic pieces

  • https://www.verpas.nl/

pics

Day 1 monday aug 5

Day2 tuesday aug 6

Day4 wednesday aug 7

Day 5 thursday aug 8

Day 6 friday aug 9

  • started on dashboard

Day 7 saturday aug 10

  • no work

Day8 sunday aug 11

  • got a spare enige + gearbox

Day9 monday aug 12

  • painted the floor in cabin
  • Put a tarp on top cause it was raining

Day10 tuesday aug 13

  • experiments with acid and paint
  • welding on front window
  • welded new steel in the side
  • sanding left front door

Day11 wednesday aug 14

  • some chiseling away of tectyl on underside
  • pressure washing underside
  • welding thing under side door

Day12 thursdayday aug 15

Day411

v belt

Tried to get to apk, right front brake still burning.

stuff needed

https://www.aanhangwagendirect.nl/verbindingsdoos-vlakstekker-8x4.html

https://www.wovar.nl/zelftappers-zwart/

https://www.schroevenxl.nl/metalstudschroeven-4-2x13-verzinkt-1000-stuks.html

https://www.schroevenxl.nl/zelfborende-schroeven-flenskop-torx-verzinkt-4-2x13-1000-stuks.html

https://www.schroevenxl.nl/metaalschroeven/zelfborende-schroeven/zelftappers-met-boorpunt-din-7504m-bolkop.html

https://www.jdhtools.nl/product/JDH02950-Assortiment-zelf-tappende-Parkers-750-St-FD6119

https://www.gereedschapland.nl/product/4071/assortiment-zwarte-zelftapschroeven-700dlg

https://www.toolland.nl/bevestigingsmateriaal/pgb-zelftappende-schroef-din7981/din7981c-h.html

din7891c = https://eu.shop.bossard.com/media/product_datasheet/BN_13259_1_Bossard_1.pdf

take from lag

  • bolts
  • car wire

parts catalog

  • In russion, but seems to have complete mercedes catalog with pics: http://www.elcats.ru/mercedes/Group.aspx?Model=9bd2d239-0ccf-4a6b-9df5-ef0acf6d6342

mercedes bremer repair stuff on youtube

smoke

MOKE COLOR

Basically there are 3 types of smoke emitted from a diesel engine: black, blue and white.

Black smoke:

Black smoke is the most common emitted from diesel engines and indicates incomplete combustion of the fuel. Black smoke causes can vary widely and include .. · Incorrect fuel injection timing · Dirty or worn fuel injectors · Over fuelling · Faulty turbocharger, or turbo lag · Faulty or dirty exhaust gas recycling (EGR) system · Incorrect valve clearance · Incorrect fuel to air ratio · Dirty or restricted air cleaner systems · Over loading the engine · Poor fuel quality · Cool operating temperatures · High altitude operation · Excessive carbon build-up in combustion and exhaust spaces

Black smoke can occur across the entire operating range, but is usually worst under full power, or during the lag before the turbocharger boosts air supply to match the fuel usage such as in the early stages of acceleration and during gear changes. Moderate turbo lag smoke is acceptable; otherwise black smoke should be hardly visible in a correctly running engine.

Blue smoke:

Blue smoke is caused by engine lubricating oil burning. The oil can enter the combustion chamber from several sources including:

· Worn valve guides, or seals · Cylinder &/or piston ring wear · Cylinder glaze · Piston ring sticking · Incorrect grade of oil .. too thin and getting past rings, or valves guides · Fuel dilution of the oil, making it too thin.

Blue smoke is often evident at cold start, which can reflect reduced oil control due to carbon fouling deposits around the piston rings and/or cylinder glaze. Blue smoke should not be evident at any stage. An engine may burn oil without the evidence of blue smoke, because good compression burns oil quite cleanly, however, it is not acceptable for any new engine, or engine in good internal condition to burn large amounts of lubricating oil.

White smoke:

White smoke is caused by raw, un-burnt fuel passing into the exhaust stream. Common causes include: · Incorrect fuel injection timing · Defective fuel injectors · Low cylinder compression

Low cylinder compression may be caused by leaking valves, sticking piston rings, ring wear, cylinder wear, or cylinder glaze. When white smoke occurs at cold start and then disappears as the engine warms up, the most common causes are fouling deposits around piston rings and/or cylinder glazing. Continuous evidence of white smoke indicates a mechanical defect, or incorrect fuel timing.

todo

  • schraubensicherung on the brakes
  • take more air out
  • greese remkrachtregelaar
  • speling vooras / stuur
  • figure out which oil (should be thick?)

problems with engine (15 october 2020 )

After changing motor oil (put in almost 5 liters), fuel pump oil, coolant (put in 10 liters). First engine wouldn't start, then tought there was too much oil (cause dipsticks and transparant oil are confusing) and drained 1.5 liter, also drained the fuelpump from the banjobout (but apperently this is how you are supposed to make sure oil level is good???)

Then engine ran for a bit, stopped shakingly.

status:

Put a jerrycan as the fueltank, and replaced fuelfilter, to make sure its getting (clean) fuel (the old fuel looked very cloudy). When taking off the pressure pipe of 1 of the injectors, fuel is coming out when turning.

Managed to start the engine (after washing the air filter with brake cleaner), quite likely it started and was running mostly on brake cleaner.

Then it wouldn't want to stop when using the stop button, pressing the lever at the pump would slow it down a bit, but wouldn't stop. Then put it in gear and let clutch go.

Now the airfilter is drying (to get the brake cleaner out).

Possible explaination of the symptoms.

  • there was something that could be bubbling (not very sure) seen in the video, that could indicate a leak in the koppakking

  • problems with the vacuum line coming from air intake ( injector pump is governed by the inlet air pressure), there was a (loose) piece of tape on that hose, and there seems to be a tiny hole.

  • some existing problem got worse from runnig with too little oil for a bit, according to the internet running with too little oil with no load for a while is not a problem, since a cold engine that has been sitting for a while anyway takes a long time to actually circulate the oil to the head

  • before it was running on fuel that had been sitting in the filter, and now it started sucking cloudy (water emulsion??) fuel from the tank.

Things looked at:

  • Fuel was yellow and very cloudy
    • can be because of water in emulsion in the diesel (apperently there is some additives that make it do that)
    • Another source of cloudiness in diesel is wax crystallising out of fuel at low temperatures.
    • cloudy diesel can apparently clog up the filter (which might explain why it was half empty??)
  • Fuel filter was half empty

Things to verify.

  • check blowby (remove hose from cover and see if smoke comes out)

  • check head gasket

  • check rings

  • check for leaks in diesel pump governor

  • check compression Need a compression testing gauge for that, + long sockets for injector + heater -> if low

    * check (and adjust) valves
* check if all cylinders are low, or just some

Insure you are doing the drip test correctly, since it is easy to screw up and mis-interpret the data. You are looking for the cut-off point where the IP port first closes since that marks "start of pressurizing". Before that point, you can pump the hand pump and fuel will flow/squirt out the delivery valve port (w/ guts removed). When the port closes, you won't get any flow. It is a very sharp transistion. I don't even bother with the manual's "special drip tube" and such. It goes from squirting to nothing in ~1 crank degree (which you can barely set w/ a wrench anyway). If you want to count drops, do that too. If you have a 1984-85 engine, with rack sensor on the IP, you will find getting at one of the 3 nuts very challenging.

I set my 2 300D's to 27 deg, instead of the manual's 24 deg, since many say that can give better mileage and performance, at the expense of louder idle. I didn't notice any difference in idle noise. Seems my mileage has improved, but I rarely take long trips for a good apples-apples comparison.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/366270-removing-injector-pump-om617-2.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/311996-w115-om616-injection-pump-installation-timing-how.html

Perhaps the vacuum shutdown valve at the rear of the injection pump was replaced and installed incorrectly. You are supposed to slide it in tilted so the L hook goes in past the lever it pulls on to stop the engine. If someone just forced it in straight, that would push the lever forward increasing idle speed. Find out if it stops with the key, and if anyone has fooled with that part.